Archive for September, 2005

Falling and Recovery

If you water ski, there are times when you will fall. At low speeds around 20 miles an hour it does not matter much how you hit the water. But at higher speeds you should know how to hit the water safely. The safest way to hit the water at 35 miles an hour or faster is with a somersault or roll. After you have dropped the tow-line handle, fold your arms in front of your face, tuck your head behind your arms for protection, and roll up into a ball before hitting the water. With proper practice this way of falling will become almost automatic. Also, try to fall to the side of the skis to avoid hitting them during the fall or when you come up for air.

The next problem is to recover the skis and get them on again. The first few times you may find yourself engaged in a mad scramble with two skis that won’t stay where you want them. There is a simple way to manage this: get the skis close to you, parallel to each other, and facing in the proper direction. Pull your knees up against your chest, and take a deep breath. Duck under water, face forward, and slip one foot into the binding. Reach out for the other ski, and repeat. You will find that you will sink only a few inches under water, and if you are wearing a life belt, you do not even have to duck your head under water to get the skis on. Go out in water that is shoulder deep a few times and practice putting on your skis so that you will know how. Then you won’t have to put up with the caustic comments of a boat operator who is circling around waiting for you to get set.

There are times when you will want to get out of your skis. You do not have to reach under water to free your foot. Merely bend your knee, kick straight down, and then pull your knee up again, fast. This will almost always pull your feet out of the bindings, if done quickly enough, and the ski will float to the surface.

The Landing

Landing is just about the least of the problems in water skiing. Release the tow rope and you will sink into the water. Use the technique explained above to free the skis and carry them into shore. However, most skiers who end a run erect prefer a more spectacular finish. If there is a landing ramp or gently sloping beach, the boat can head you toward it, then swerve off. When you drop the handle you should have enough momentum to carry you right up to the ramp or beach on your skis. Or if there is no ramp, you can glide in parallel to the beach for a stop in shallow water.

The “sit on dock” is another effective way to come in. Have the boat come in close to the dock and in a course parallel to it. At normal skiing speed, you can figure that your momentum will carry you about 20 feet after you drop the rope. With the right timing you can glide in to the dock, then turn just as you reach it, and sit down. If you find yourself coming in too fast, you can cut your speed by sitting down on the skis and dragging your hands in the water for a somewhat less graceful landing.

Turning

For your first few minutes on water skis, stay well within the wake of the boat that is pulling you. If you move outside the wake, the waves will probably throw you. An experienced operator can help your first runs by having his boat follow your course instead of making you follow his.

If you have ever done any snow skiing it will make the

technique of turning on water skis much easier to acquire. When you want to turn on water skis, you must bank by raising the edges of the skis as well as pointing them where you want to go. Say you want to go to the right. Lean over to the right-at your ankles-and at the same time raise the left edges of the skis higher than the right. The skis will turn to the right. You will find that the skis are more responsive to a bank at low speeds than at high. The faster you are going, the deeper you must dig with the edge of the skis to make your turn, and you must crouch lower to keep your balance. Until you have gained some confidence in turning from side to side, stay within the wake of the boat.

Reaching Calm Water

One of the greatest thrills of water skiing is crossing the wake of the boat for the first time and skiing in the calm water beyond it. The basic principle in crossing the wake is to approach the turbulent water as close to a 90-degree angle as possible. In this way you avoid having your skis caught in the trough of the wake. To get set for the “crossing,” slide over to the opposite side of the wake you are riding, then reverse your turn, head for the wake, and ride through it. Here, to hesitate is to be lost. Once you start through the wake, keep on moving through it. If you slow down in the midst of the turbulent water you will very probably lose your skis. It might help if you tried to cross your wake when the boat is turning. There is a slightly flatter wake at such times, and you can get some additional speed across it by swinging away from the direction in which the boat is turning.

After you have crossed the wake a few times, you will probably want to try your hands or feet at jumping it. This is not too difficult. Approach the wake at nearly right angles from the outside is easier. Spring upwards just as the tips touch the wake; absorb the shock of landing with your

knees. Remember to keep your back as straight as possible on the jump, and keep your toes up. With some practice you should be able to jump a wake with about 3 feet of air under your skis.

The Take-Off

The best start for the beginner is the deep-water start, which means in water that is 3 feet or more deep. The operator will bring the boat around and drag the rope near you so that you can get the handle and grip it. Get in the skiing position, knees high, almost against your chest. When you are set and ready, call “Gear” to the boat. That is the operator’s signal to move slowly ahead at idling speed until the slack is out of the rope. When you feel tension in the rope, shout “Hit it!” and the boat will accelerate rapidly, pulling you up on the water. Do not pull back on the rope. As you feel the pull grow stronger, stand up slowly, keeping your weight on your heels, not leaning forward or backward. Try to keep your skis parallel and about 18 inches apart. If your ski tips head for each other or spread apart, it is a sign that your ankles are turned. If you keep your knees about 18 inches apart and your feet pointed ahead, the skis will behave!

There are two sensations you must get used to on water skis. You will feel your skis wobble and think you are going to fall, but a little fight to keep your balance will probably correct this wobbling. Hold onto the handle of the tow until you are sure you are really going over. A little shift in weight will usually keep you on top of your skis. The other new sensation comes when you feel a bit of slack in the line. The natural reaction is to pull back on the handle, which will result in pulling you forward. Then, when the boat picks up the slack and the line tautens, you will be pulled off balance and go over. If you relax for a moment and give the boat a chance, the slack will be taken up and you will again have the support of the line.

In a shallow water take-off, you sit on the trailing ends of your skis, with knees bent. As the boat speeds up, get into proper skiing position with knees bent.

In many places the start is from a dock. Knowing how to take off from a dock is therefore important, and not too difficult. Also the dock start is good to know, as it is a means of “dry” water skiing with no need to get more than your toes wet-unless you take a fall. Sit at the edge of the dock, facing the transom of the boat with the tips of your skis out of water and your knees raised slightly from the dock. Place 7 or 8 feet of the line on the dock near you where you can watch it, and where it can run out without catching on anything. Or you may find it easier to hold the coiled rope in your hand.

Hold the tow handle. When you are heady to go, call out “Gear.” As the boat starts, watch the portion of rope you have placed on the dock, and as it plays out, call “Hit it!” and transfer your weight to the skis. At this point avoid leaning back or your skis may slip out from under you, and do not lean forward or you may be pitched ahead into the water. The crouch should be fairly deep and the handle should be held low to give you better balance at the start. It may take a few attempts to develop the right timing for this start. Wait for the boat to pull you. Do not jump off too soon.

The first step toward learning to water ski is taken on dry land. Using properly fitted skis of the right length, place them side by side on a level stretch of beach or grass. First, wet your feet and the bindings, then push your foot up comfortably snug in the binding and pull up the heel piece. Then sit on your skis and stretch your arms straight out, knees between your elbows. Take a firm hold on the handle of the tow rope, and have someone pull you up to a standing position. Do not try to do any pulling yourself; the boat will do all the pulling in the water. The important points to keep in mind are: arms straight; knees bent; leave the pulling to the boat.

Many beginners find that the most comfortable way to hold the tow handle is in an overhand grip with the palms facing down. Try to hold the bar with the fingers rather than with the entire hand, as a hand hold is liable to cause blisters across the palms.
The proper skiing position is this: body in a crouch; tips of skis above water; arms straight ahead; back straight; and knees bent. Things to avoid are leaning forward, straightening the knees, and uneven distribution of weight on the skis.

Any of these may cause you to fall off balance the moment the pull of the boat on the line reaches you. It may help the first few times to have someone hold the tips of the skis up in proper position.

The Tow Line

Through trial and error over the years, it has been found that a tow line of 75 feet is best for most water skiing. A shorter line will pull the skier too close to the boat’s spray and back wake, and a longer line will probably drag in the water.

The preferable modern choice of line, polyethelene plastic, has a number of advantages. It does not stretch, it is immune to bacterial and fungus action, it is available in colors, and-most important-it floats on the water. Second choice is treated, twisted Manila hemp, one-quarter inch in diameter. Some skiers prefer a heavier rope, but it has been found that anything over a one-half-inch diameter becomes too bulky for easy handling. A cork or wooden float about 10 feet from the handle is a help in locating and retrieving a dropped line.

The most common handle is a single, smooth wooden bar, about one and a half inches thick and a foot long. For trick riding, a longer handle, about 18 inches in length, is preferred. Some more experienced skiers use the “slalom” or double handles, each about 6 inches long, because they provide more control over the slack in the rope and permit more graceful maneuvers.

The Skier’s Boat

Since the boat provides the motive power, it is an important factor in water skiing. Contrary to some beliefs, the faster the boat, the better and safer it is for the water skier, and skiing behind a slower boat calls for far more skill than following one that is “planing” at a proper speed. Generally, any boat that will do 18-20 miles an hour will pull a skier along, but jumping, slalom skiing and other advanced aspects of the sport call for water speeds of up to 35 miles an hour.

There is some merit to the contention of outboard motor manufacturers that the outboard is better for towing skiers than the inboard, since it throws up less of a wake. An inboard for water-ski use should have about 60 horsepower as a minimum, although a 90- to 125-horsepower craft will provide a smoother and easier tow. Also, a V-bottom boat is generally better for water skiing than the usually faster flat bottom. The weight of the skier and his water drag are a considerable burden on a small boat, and the V bottom is less likely to be pulled off course by the skier or skiers. Also, the V bottoms are usually more stable in rough water.

While a 10-horsepower outboard will pull a light person along, the best results are achieved with a 40-horsepower or heavier motor. The hull, whether inboard or outboard, should be in the 16-20-foot-length range, and “beamy” or wide enough to carry 2 or 3 passengers. If there is just one person operating the boat, it should be equipped with a rear-vision mirror, similar to the type used on automobiles, so that the boat operator can watch the skier at all times.

Tow Hitches

The attachment of the tow line to the boat is most important, especially in outboards, where the rope must be hitched so that on swings and turns it will clear the motor, which is usually the highest point on the stern of the boat. There are a number of different types of tow bars and brackets on the market. The rope should be attached to the boat fairly high, so that there will be less chance of its fouling the propeller when it is dropped by the skier. Also, for any trick skiing, the rope should be high enough to keep it from dragging in the water when a bit of slack develops in the line.

Many outboards are equipped with 2 lifting handles on the transom, but there are several reasons why they should not be used to hold the ski line. They are usually too low and are seldom strong enough to stand the steady strain of pulling a skier. Likewise, mooring cleats on the stern deck are not too satisfactory for this purpose. Some types of tow bars attach to the transom, pass around outside the motor, and have a pulley follower that rides around the bar, but they should be arranged to allow sufficient room for the motor to tilt if it strikes an underwater obstruction. The preferred types are those which carry the line over the top of the motor. With inboards, perhaps the best arrangement is a pylon or post, bolted to the beams of the boat, set on the centerline somewhere between the middle of the boat and the transom; and it should be at least 3 feet high. With this type of hitch, care should be taken to remove any stern fittings, cleats, or other fixtures which could snag the line. As to windshields, some operators keep them on; others prefer to remove them when pulling skiers, since they may become covered with spray, which reduces visibility. Another helpful accessory for water-ski pulling is a boarding ladder, or thick, knotted rope to facilitate getting aboard.

In most inboards, the standard propeller will serve well for towing skiers. For most outboards, lower-pitch propellers specially designed for towing skiers are available, although these should not be used at full throttle when not pulling skiers-to avoid overspeeding the engine with the possibility of permanent injury to the motor.

In recent years the tendency has been for shorter water skis. When the sport was first started, in the 20’s, the skis were about 10 feet long and flat bottomed. Modern skis- except for special “trick” or “turn-around” skis have one or 2 fins toward the rear and are seldom much over 6 feet in length.

For comfortable skiing, the foot binding should fit properly. Some skis come with fixed-size binding, others are adjustable, and many water skiers prefer to make their own, using pieces of truck tire or soft rubber. In most adjustable bindings, the unit consists of 2 pieces, with a fixed toe piece and an adjustable heel binding. Some types of permanent bindings consist of the rubber piece or pieces attached to a metal plate which is affixed to the ski. All ski bindings should be made so that they will release readily when the skier falls or wants “out.”

While some water skis have been made of fiberglass or fiberglass-covered wood, most water skiers prefer wooden skis, with ash and hickory as first choice, although some are made of mahogany, teak or walnut. Generally the skis are enameled or varnished, and experts claim that the varnish finish gives a faster ride, since it creates less friction than enamel. Like snow skiers, many of the water fraternity wax the bottoms of the skis with paraffin to further eliminate friction drag.

The toes of water skis are pointed upward to prevent the ski from digging into a wave and performing a toss similar to the “pitchpolling” of a boat.

SKI SELECTION CHART*
(Weight of skier in pounds; minimum ski length required. Experienced skiers may use smaller skis and less horsepower than indicated.)

! Courtesy: Evinrude Motors

Among other differences in water skis, some have tapered trailing edges, others run full width. Some experienced skiers prefer the tapered type which they feel gives them better control on fast turns. The better grades of water skis are made of laminated woods which reduce the possibility of cracking or splitting, although most skis will have a tendency to warp after much use and should then be replaced.

Few sights in sports are more spectacular than a skier (or skiers) whipping through the water behind a fast boat in wide curves and performing the “aquabatics” that make water skiing so exciting. Actually, however, not many other sports make so few demands on the participant. Toddlers and even those beyond middle age can enjoy water skiing. It is a sport in which most of the work is done by the motor of the pulling boat, and with a life belt only a minimal amount of swimming ability is required. After 10 minutes or so of instruction, the average person with fair muscular co-ordination can set out on water skis and make a presentable showing.

Water-skiing enthusiasts claim that theirs is the fastest growing sport in America today, and it is a fairly safe sport. The few accidents which do occur are generally due to the inexperience or negligence of the driver of the boat. Falling is an expected part of the sport, but falling into the water from a pair of skis may create a big splash without any effects on the skier. At normal skiing speeds, the hazard from a water spill is very slight. However, at speeds of over 30 miles an hour the impact with the water can be unpleasant, and advanced maneuvers such as jumping over ramps introduce an element of hazard.

With the increasing interest in water skiing, most waterfront and lake resort areas provide facilities for renting skis and tow boats, and many have schools which provide instruction. Rates may be a bit high. In some places the charge is about $5 for a 15-minute tow and about $12 for a 15-minute lesson, with an instructor skiing alongside the student to advise and aid him.

SCIENTISTS trace man’s long line of ascent from creatures which lived in the water and came up to dry land some 300 million years ago. The last few decades have witnessed an unparalleled return of man to water, but this time for sport and recreation. More leisure time, more money to spend on recreation, and the adoption of beach and pool wear which allows untrammeled use of the limbs and freer exposure to the sun to say nothing of spectators-have all aided the burgeoning popularity of water sports.

Swimming has become a part of the life of almost every American. Its recognition as perhaps the most suitable form of exercise for persons of all ages and its importance as a safety factor for participation in any form of water sport have made us a nation of swimmers. Many schools today include swimming in the curriculum and some insist on a certain degree of aquatic proficiency as a requirement for graduation.

The flourishing home swimming pool industry is a testimonial to an increased interest in the water as is the continued demand, and steadily increasing value, of waterfront property in vacation and residential areas. Technological development has also spurred the growth in aquatic activity. The outboard motorboat has brought many millions closer to the water, and the use of diving and underwater breathing equipment has opened new vistas for thousands of water sportsmen and women.

While the old swimming hole holds a cherished place in the literature of American boyhood, swimming and diving as competitive sports are fairly recent developments dating from the nineteenth century. Rock carvings indicate that the Assyrians crossed small rivers using inflated skins to support them, and the inflated water wings in popular use in the 1920’s and 30’s served the same purpose for learners and nonswimmers.

Swimming was first recognized as a necessary military skill, and perhaps the first book on the subject De Arte Natandi by Everard Digby, published in England in 1587, stressed the value of the skill in approaching an enemy or escaping through the water. Likewise, the ancient samurai of Japan developed a repertoire of swimming techniques for military use.