The Surfboard and the Surfing competitions

The early surfboards were 12 to 14 feet long and weighed 50 pounds or more. Modern boards are usually made of balsa wood and weigh about 25 pounds. As to length; the rule of thumb is that the board should be about twice the height of the surfer. In addition to shaped balsa boards, others are made of balsa and plywood, filled with foam plastic for more buoyancy, and the better boards are fiber-glassed like pleasure boats. Also, some surfboards are made of marine plywood or masonite hulks containing an air chamber for buoyancy.

Some surfers prefer a square-sterned board, although the ‘”Malibu” board has become popular in recent years. This type of board is pointed at the tip and sharply rounded at the stern, is about 2 feet wide and 3 inches thick, and is somewhat shorter than older boards, averaging about 10 feet in length. Its adherents say it is easier to carry, less tiring to paddle, and that it takes off rapidly on a wave.

New boards generally cost about $75, second-hand boards are available for about $50, and at the more popular surfing beach areas, boards may be rented. A board can be built for about $12 worth of material. (Plans are shown later in this chapter.)

Surfing Competition

The world-wide popularity of surf riding has led to international competition in the sport. Each November the International Surfing Championships competition is held at Makaha Beach, Oahu, Hawaii, and draws entrants from all over the world. The championship events are preceded by a qualifying event. In this the contestants must select and successfully ride 3 waves in a 30-minute period, and are judged on 4 factors: points at which the wave was caught (first, second, or third buoy) ; length of ride in standing position; skill and judgment in maneuvering board; and sportsmanship.

In the finals, held a week later, those who have qualified must select and successfully ride 6 waves within 45 minutes. The time periods are subject to wave conditions and may be lengthened if the surf is not running high.

There are 4 different categories in the meet: men’s, women’s and boys’ surfboard riding, and mixed tandem riding. The tandem contest is usually the most spectacular. Tandem teams are usually made up of a man and a woman, and the competition is “free style,” leaving the maneuvers to the ingenuity and skill of the participants. A team may ride standing, or with one partner standing on the bent knees of the other, or sitting on the shoulders, or standing on the shoulders on one foot, or perhaps even being held aloft.

There are also localized championships at many beach areas. One source of general information on surfing and surfing competition is a magazine, The Surfer, whose address is Box 1028, Dana Point, California.

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